Spellack
Main Face - Upper Tier
Saucerful of Secrets E3/4 6a ***
C.Hiller, R.Bell 20/6/11
Approach can be made scrambling up the large terraces adjacent to the Main Face and weaving round to the huge grass ledge at the foot of the upper wall. Alternatively climb the classic 'White Walls' and deviate off to the grass ledge or abseil in from the top.
Climbs the zig-zag grooves in the middle of the upper wall to the right of 'Blowin in the Wind'. Step off the grass ledge and gain the horizontal break below the parallel diagonal grooves. Delicately layback the grooves (small cams crucial) and gain the sloping break on the right (crux). Follow this briefly down and right to the next set of parallel diagonal grooves. There is a small cam in a slot down and right (hard to see). Climb the grooves and then more easily to the top.
Main Face
Into The Breach E3 6a *
C.Hiller, J.Parr 2/7/18
Start at the furthermost upper section of the gully starting as for ‘Cool for Cats’. Share the start gaining the small ledges and move up to the first horizontal break (good big cams). Cool for Cats takes the thin groove on the right. Move up over break on flat edges to next break and arrange more big cams. Avoid the chockstones on the left for footholds as they look somewhat best left alone. Follow the right trending pocked seam (small cam in dubious flake up and left) and gain the left side of the obvious ledge (feels bold). Move right to the layback crack (good gear) and follow this to its natural end and step left. Breach the arcing veg ledge to the large horizontal break (big cams) and follow the groove of ‘Walking Backwards’ to the top. You should double up on big cams for the line.
The Peace Donkey
R.Bell
The Diplomacy Mule E7/8 6b
A.Robertson, E.Quinn Oct 2014
A bold route with no meaningful gear until after all the hard climbing ends at 20m. Start up the flake as for Warhorse but continue direct via a series of pockets to stand in the break above. Gain twin pockets marooned on the wall above via a bit of a jump and make difficult moves to mantle into them. A delicate sequence gains a flared pocket in the next break, and the crux moves to get stood up in it. Step up and left to small undercuts, and smear left across the small overlap. Gain a sloping ramp on the bulging wall above and make a final hard move to gain the break (and gear). Continue direct more easily to gain the diagonal crack of Mirror Mirror and, with relief, finish up this.
Lower Face (Mad Dogs Wall)
Ultra Vires E3 6a **
K.Kilroy, T.Fearon, E.Thompson, J.McCune 15/06/2014
A cruxy route through the roof left of Usurper with good, interesting, easier climbing above the roof. Climb Usurper to the roof and places loads of cams. Climb directly through the roof using an obvious undercut jug (crux). Climb the face above the roof (slightly bold at first with small hard to see cams for protection) trending slightly left until the large heather ledge.
Forest View Buttress
The Heeling Process E4 5c **
K.Kilroy, C.Mulhall 4/8/14
An excellent, independent and committing direct finish to Moto Psycho Nightmayer. Once you’ve got to the fat crack and wee ledge on Moto... shuffle right and climb on the edge of Forest View Buttress until the mantel finish (crux).
Krecik
R.Bell
Cabin Cruise Buttress
The following route is an old addenda from the end of the 98 guide and was accidentally missed for the 2010 edition. So here it is again. It was recently climbed and stated to be significantly under-graded.
Variation into Cabin Cruise E2 6a
Gary Murray, Ken Lindsay 7/7/98
Climb directly and boldly up to a small leftward pointing triangular flake. A few more moves then join Cabin Cruise.
Cabin Fever
Variation Finish E2 5b ***
Eamon Quinn, Kevin Quinn 7/7/18
Climb Cabin Cruise until just after the crux where the crack widens. Hand traverse left on the horizontal crack then up the obvious hand crack under the wee roof. Climb through the roof as for Fear and Trembling (good gear) then make a spicy mantel just to remind you you're in the Mournes. Continue with interest up cracks on the left hand side of the main face.