Hare's Castle
More info on new routes and updates from Ian Rea (The King of Rock & Knoll)
A: Hellfire Corner ** HS 4b (possibly 4c)
The aspirant leader should note that no protection is available until reaching the thin corner crack at the first good ledge.
The following routes were all cleaned in 2019.
B: Smudges Doom * HS 4b spraukle start.
C: Smudges Doom * finesse start. 4b? Aye it is!
D: Unknown Pleasures E2/3 6a
I. Rea, E. Rea & K.O’Hara 17/9/19
Hard bouldery start, past the relic on Smudges Doom, step right and up hard
short crack, up short corner, directly over bulge, then finish up slab with crack.
E: All Quiet, VS 5a
Suggested upgrade to HVS 5a
F: Biggles * E2 5c
The crux is above the second ledge, and you soon reach good holds. You
can then go up right, as marked, or just left on a chunky flake, then immediately
back right.
The area to the right of 'Biggles' is characterised by many short facets of great rock which are unfortunately broken up by big grassy ledges. However a number can be linked to give the following fine route.
G: Fragments S 4a
I. Rea, E.Rea & K.O’Hara 17/9/19
Pull up onto ledge. Up via bore hole. Left to grass ledge. Up corner crack. Left and up easy arete, then left again and finish up sharp edge of huge boulders. Surprisingly good, and well cleaned.
Rocky Knoll
The routes on this crag are excellent, on superb rock, and are well protected. It is ten minutes further on from the main crag, but you can always do a route on the main face and then continue with routes on the knoll. There are two belay stakes in place on the flat grassy top.
(Ian Rea, 2019)
H: Micro Splitter VS 4c 16m
I. Rea, K. O’Hara 24/8/19
Across slab to crack, up and hand traverse left, back up right and over steep bulge on superb holds.
I: Dancin’ Fool E2/3 5c 16m
K.O’Hara, I.Rea 21/9/19
It’s all there but the upper part is about 95 degrees. Strenuous, obviously, but good gear.
J: Peaches en Regalia VS 4c 16m
I.Rea, K.O’Hara 24/8/19
Gets more awkward as you go up. Delicious!
K: Rip it S 4a 16m
K.O’Hara, I.Rea 24/8/19
Steeply commodious. Suits you sir.
L: Morgenland VS 4c 16m
I.Rea, K.O’Hara 24/8/19
Nicely continuous at its standard and more delicate than its neighbours.
