Buzzard's Roost
Main Face - Left Hand
The Ledger HVS 4c
C. Hiller
Into the Dread 45m E7, 6b/c ***
P Swail, R Bell 23/07/11
Sustained and well protected wall climbing, tackling the steep wall left of Twist of Fate. One of the best of its nature and its grade in the whole of the country. Approach the start of Twist of Fate either by abseil or by scrambling up the steep grass.
Climb Twist of Fate for 2m then traverse left for 5m to a small blocky overhang. From here climb the steep wall straight up, aiming for the inverted V roof. From the roof, head left whilst trying to fight off the pump and make technical moves on slopers with a big reach to a break and in-situ thread. Relax and climb the steep headwall slightly right on good holds, in a tremendous position to finish on a granite ledge.
The Peace Line 55m E7/8 6c ***
R.Bell, M.O’loughlin, H.Fogg 26/9/10 (Headpoint)
Bouldery climbing in a spectacular position. Follow the start of Divided Years and onto the big ledge out left at half height. Continue up the groove above to a small roof and good cams. A long bouldery section leads via the short arete to the finishing jugs of Divided Years.
Mental Crack E7 6c
R.Bell
Main Face - Right Hand
Rio Bravo 45m E2 5b
I.Rea, K.O'Hara 30/6/11
Start just left of Mithril. Climb up the short corner and overhang on the left and gain the easier stepped section of Mithril. Where it goes right go left and then directly up an independent series of overhangs and bulges on the wall between Mithril and Walktall.
Sunflower Sutra 45m E1 5b
I.Rea, K.O'Hara 30/6/11
Start in the chimney/alcove as for Mithril but immeadiately swing out right on to the arete. Weave up this to a big sloping ledge. Up right at a flake. Up into an alcove. Up to grassy ledge. Up short wide crack in corner, then steeply out left on a flake to another ledge. Finish up bulges above.
Both Rio Bravo and Sunflower Sutra gave serious trouble with rope drag, so take plenty of slings and extenders.
Heavens Gate 60m E1 5b,5a
I.Rea, K.O'Hara 18/4/2014
This is the obvious line just around the arête to the right of Mithral, at the left edge of the steep leaning wall.the initial crux wall takes a good while to dry out.
1. 5b. Avoid the chimney slot by going up cleaned blocks to its right. Gain a short dog leg crack and from its top and go left to gain the obvious fault/crack. From the ledge at its top go up and right over bulge and the small overhang in a superb position. Go left and belay on the grass ledge in a right angled niche.
2. 5a. Up the short wide crack to ledge. Up short bulging wall on left to another ledge, then exit over bulge to left with the aid of a high (well hello there) hidden pocket.
Ian Rea on the 1st ascent of 'Heaven's Gate'
Amateur Hour HVS 5a **
J.Parr, E.Quinn 17/5/2013
Juggy, well protected climbing combine to give a fantastic route through some steep ground in an amazing situation.
Climb broken pillar to gain the base of the clean slab. Follow slab
until forced around the arête. Continue steeply up the wall above, following flakes and cracks.