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Eagle Rocks

Upper Cliffs

Dagger Buttress

Dagger's Edge                            E4 6a  **      18m

E. Quinn, K. Kilroy 3/7/15 (Headpoint)

 

A technical eliminate with a serious air which climbs the face and right hand arête of the dagger, avoiding the chimney on the right. Start up the grassy chimney and place some side runners before stepping left onto the rock pillar. Use the arête to make some hard moves off the pillar and gain the horizontal break (red C3 sized cam). Technical moves lead to an easy finish.

Revival                                  HVS/E1 5b        18m

I. Rea, V. McAlinden  4/9/18


A nice eliminate on Stalin. Start as for Stalin moving left onto the first ledge. Place a cam in the crack but from here on, stay on the wall only using the right flake edge for hands. Lovely moves lead to a thin crack. Climb between this and the edge. Up left from last ledge.

Brothers & Sisters                         VS 4c       15m

I.Rea, M.Rea & F. Mullan  25/5/18


Start about 8m right of Stalin at a deep vertical slot in which there is a jammed block. Directly up the vertical cracks.

Fallen Idol                                      VS 4c       14m

I.Rea, M.Rea & F. Mullan  25/5/18


Start 2m right of Brothers and Sisters. A thin crack leads to a wide crack, then a ledge. Up right to a ledge. Back left up nice and double cracks to another ledge. Traverse left and finish up Brothers and Sisters.

Grooved Buttress

The Last Detail                           HVS 5a       22m

I.Rea, M.Rea & F. Mullan  25/5/18


A lovely, tricky, airy route. Start 2m right of Trident Central at an inverted V slot. Go up this to another, larger, inverted V slot. Go into this and onto knobs on right. Up to left edge of overhang at a crack. Up crack, hidden spike, to final bulge. Step right but then immediately left with thin moves to gain an exposed ledge on the left. Use undercut on right to make final exposed moves up. The final section is intricate.

Lower Cliff

Highland Fling                              VS 4c       20m

I. Rea, V. McAlinden  4/9/18


Climb the initial crack of Z Route Direct. Instead of gaining the grass ledge on the left, traverse right on a finger flake and then delicately step up to the flake edge. Up the thin crack on the right edge, then from the next ledge duek round the arête on the right and up via a small finger flake.

Grooved Buttress & Dagger Buttress.jpg

Grooved Buttress (Bottom left) & Dagger Buttress (Top right)

Eagle Rocks - Dagger Buttress 1.jpg

The lines of Revival, Brothers & Sisters and Fallen Idol

Eagle Rocks - Grooved Buttress.jpg

The lines of Trident Central (Blue) and The Last Detail (Red)

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