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Doan

South Bluff

There is a small South facing bluff just below the summit of Doan that was developed by Ian Rea and Kieran O’Hara in the Autumn of 2016 and contains the following eight short routes.

 

‘Small beer in the Mournes, but that’s mainly because they are just under an hour from the car. Stick them on the edge of Burbage in the English Peak and people would be climbing all over them, so don’t scoff!’   Ian Rea

1. El Scorcio                       HVS 5a                  8m

K. O’Hara & I. Rea  October 2016

 

Span slightly right at crux bulge.

 

2. La Doble                         VS 4c                     8m

K. O’Hara & I. Rea  October 2016

 

3. Mr Wolf                          VS 4c                     8m

I. Rea & K. O’Hara  October 2016

 

4. Smokey                             S 4a                    10m

I. Rea & K. O’Hara  September 2016

 

5. This is Not Nam            VS 4c                    10m

I. Rea & K. O’Hara  September 2016

 

6. This is Bowling              VS 4c                   10m

I. Rea & K. O’Hara  September 2016

 

7. There are Rules             VS 4c                   10m

I. Rea & K. O’Hara  September 2016

 

8. Mark it Zero                  E2 5c                   13m

I. Rea & K. O’Hara  October 2016

 

Crux is at 2/3 height, reaching up left for a good hidden pocket, then cranking up on a jam which you better get right or your off. Very tasty!

Doan South Bluff Topo.jpg
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