Slieve Commedagh
The Castles
Jobseekers Buttress Area
Left of "Jobseekers Flake" is a large box shaped recess with a large and steep west facing wall. Opposite this wall is a pinnacle/pillar.
Dog roll E1 5b 22m
K. O'Hara & I. Rea 4/5/17
Climbs S.E. side of pillar. Start up steep flakes and crack which lead to ledges. Nice airy finish out right on steep bulge.
Cassini VS / HVS 4c 16m
I. Rea & K. O'Hara 4/5/17
Takes the obvious steep cleft right of the above on the East face of the pillar, with the thin crack on the right mostly giving better grippage than the wide nasty ones.
There has been rope placed at the top with a steel maillon as a potential belay and abseil point. Just check it before you use it!
Bareknuckle Buttress Area
Adjacent to Danny Carden’s lines on Bareknuckle Buttress are the following routes put up in the Summer of 2016 by Ian Rea & Co.
Tucked up left and partially hidden above a short rock step are two arêtes. The shorter one on the left is the first of the following two routes.
The Tiller Girls E2 5c 12m
I. Rea, K. O’Hara & V. McAlinden 18/6/16
Takes the left arête. Easier climbing peters out at two thirds height. Good offset cams can be placed in the flake on the right, but continue up the arête edge with a bold finish.
Lemonade Springs VS 4c 15m
I. Rea, K. O’Hara & V. McAlinden 18/6/16
The longest arête, split by a crack, finishing on face climbing.
If you take a descent from the previous routes by descending across and down an easy slope on the west, you come across a short buttress with an obvious crack on its east side.
Untitled VS 4c 15m
K. O’Hara, I. Rea & V. McAlinden 18/6/16
Climbs the right hand line on the south facing side. Up short crack to large ledge then steeply up on good holds and flakes moving right. One of these flakes feels about ready to pop off, but is strangely locked in place.
1. The line of 'Dog Roll' with 'Cassini' (2) situated beyond the arête to the right.
2. The line of 'Cassini'
Toil and Blood E3 5c/6a 22m
I. Rea & K. O’Hara 6/6/16
The obvious line 2m left of Archibald. Continuous thin face climbing up pockets and grooves to finish up a steep hand crack/layaway. Good gear, offset cams useful, but the cruxes seem to keep coming.
The Sunny Side E1 5b 20m
I. Rea & P. Irwin 27/8/16
Start up and right of Bareknuckle Boxer. Climb up into an obvious flakey right facing corner on the edge of the buttress. Climb corner, traverse right on slab to jutting block. Up over block and cracks above.
The Tiller Girls (Left) & Lemonade Springs (Right)
Info on Danny’s Routes.
'The climbing on Bareknuckle Boxer is in a great position but be careful at the crux as the rock is a little grainy. Archibald and Born Again were rather scruffy. I abseiled and cleaned the second half of the former and the first half of the latter. The resultant combination is excellent, I have done it twice already and I think, worth VS.'
Ian Rea, 2016.
The Sunny Side
Toil and Blood (left). Then in order Archibald, Born Again & Bareknuckle Boxer (2010 guide).